NEW DELHI: Childhood memories spent lazing around mango orchards comes alive in garments designed by Delhi-based Suket Dhir, who has won the just-announced 2015 International Woolmark Prize (IWP) regional final.
Dhir, who in 2009 began his eponymous label best described as Indo-centric western menswear, specializes in old school tailoring and finishing techniques to create garments, which he says is equally popular with women.
The 35-year old designer was pitted against 11 others from India, Pakistan and the Middle East for the prize worth AED 136,112 that was handed to him at a ceremony in Dubai recently.
“My childhood was spent with my grandfather in our mango orchard in Banga, Punjab. He was the most elegant man with an old world charm who wore loose pyjamas and kurtas. Now when I play with my two-year-old son it brings back memories. For the contest I tried to translate those memories into garments,” Dhir told PTI.
For the competition Dhir used Merino wool to stitch up ensembles incorporating the mango designs as embroidery and weaving techniques like the Ikat, to create the winning design of loose trousers and an indigo jacket.
Dhir, will now represent the region – India, Pakistan and Middle East and compete with five other regional winners in an international final scheduled to be held in Florence in January 2016.
Returning from Dubai after accepting the award, Dhir now begins preparations to create a capsule collection for the finals. The common fabric that he has to use is Merino wool also known as “cool wool”, something that can be worn both in the summer as well as winter.
“I present transitional ensembles that will be good for both summer and winter. I have used the Ikat weave which is popular in Telengana. We worked with weavers in Telengana to incorporate wool into what is traditionally created in cotton or silk yarn.
“In summer there are very strong heat waves in the region, which claim many lives. I have worked with weavers to try and create garments that breathe,” says Dhir. The designer who till date has not showcased in a fashion week is focused on working with all natural fabrics – cotton, silk, linen, wool and even hemp.
“My look is hundred per cent western but there is something Indian in them. You cannot pinpoint a finger at it but when you look at them you feel it in your heart. I don’t do ethnic,” says Dhir.
An alumnus of NIFT says he does not intend to design clothes for women but points out that he delves into the androgyny trend — clothes that can be worn both my men and women.
“The shirts are admired by a lot of women, my wife loves a lot of my kurtas. I can say that my menswear is very pretty.
Usually it is women who shop and pick up clothes for the men and my clothes appeal to them. Some of them even buy my shirts for themselves,” says Dhir.
Accepting the IWP, says the long bearded designer, is an “honor I did not expect.”
“We had a great product but our competitors were so good and it was tough and made me very nervous,” he says.
The IWP was launched in 1953 by Australia-based Woolmark Co. Indian designer Rahul Mishra had won the 2014 IWP at the Milan Fashion Week. Past winners also include legendary designers like Karl Lagerfeld and the late Yves Saint Laurent.–PTI
